ARRECIFES ARTIFICIALES DE ENROCAMIENTO PARA PROTECCIÓN DE PLAYAS

Abstract

Mexico has an extensive coast line, which represent an important natural wealth that can be used in various productive sectors, such as fishing, freight and tourism, among others. Because the coast is one of the most dynamic ecosystems on our planet, it is affected by various environmental factors, like waves that constantly erode and change its shape, a main cause of sediment transport. Because of this it is important to research about coast line preservation. This thesis describes the protection of beaches using artificial rubble mound reefs, by using a reduced physical model, which is proposed as an option for achieving the conservation and restoration of coastal areas for our country. The main objective of this study was to determine the behavior of the transmission of waves for an artificial reef whith a trapezoidal cross section. Slopes of 2:1 on the sea side and a slope of 1.5:1 on the land side were used. The crest of this section was modified using three different lengths of 20, 30 and 40 meters. Also for these three conditions, we applied two differents submergence of a half a meter and a meter. Tests were conducted in a narrow channel of waves, under irregular wave action. From the data obtained in the trials, we performed calculations of wave transmission coefficients and compared these with those obtained from the formulations of Goda, Van der Meer, and d'Angremond. With these values were made charts and graphs that helped the interpretation of the phenomenon under study. We conclude that the structure that works more efficiently to reduce the transmission of the incident wave has a crest width of 40 m using a submergence of half a meter.